Ameer, the Keyholder & Story Teller!
In Bonsia, we studied the Quran principles- Surat al-Hujrat, the character Surah to shape our code of conduct hence help shape the behaviour of the group during our 5 day trip- a thriller, transformative and a place where difficult principles can become habits.
We met Ameer, his pain spoke volumes through his eyes that he could not keep it hidden for too long- the healing process was still ongoing, his words were testament to that. Nevertheless, he felt comfortable around us, he snacked, smoked and spoke confidently as his story poured out like the waterfalls of Jajce. As the mid-night approached with whisper - at our elevated place with a stunning view of Sarajevo - the tale continued as smoke of cigarettes engulfed him forming fog as he drowned in memories.
Thriller
We are not talking about Micheal Jackson here! Traveling to Sarajevo, often called the "Jerusalem of Europe," was a journey that went beyond sightseeing—it was an immersion into a culture rich with history, hospitality, and heart. Leaving behind the constraints of daily life in London, I was thrilled to embark on this adventure with a small group of friends. From the moment we arrived, the warmth of the Bosnian people enveloped us and our heart felt that. I want to call Bosnia the heart of Europe! Bosnia and Herzegovina welcomed us with open arms and kisses on the cheeks. The representative from the car rental company set the tone with his friendliness, treating us like long-lost friends rather than customers. This sense of hospitality was a constant throughout our trip, making us feel instantly at home. Sarajevo, with its blend of history and modernity, offered a plethora of experiences. Staying near the site of Archduke Ferdinand's assassination, we explored the city’s rich tapestry of museums, castles, mosques, and bridges. The museum visits were deeply moving, connecting us to the heart-wrenching stories of the past. Walking through the city, we never encountered a frown; the dignity and honour of the Bosnian people shone through every interaction.
Test of Manhood at the Iconic Bridge
Our culinary journey was equally memorable. From enjoying a lamb and kebab platter that could feed six for about £50 to savouring local delicacies in quaint restaurants, the food in Bosnia was as warm and inviting as its people. Every meal felt like a celebration of the country’s rich cultural heritage. Oh how I wish you could experience this! One of the highlights of our trip was our visit to Mostar. The iconic bridge, where young men demonstrate their courage by jumping off to prove their readiness for marriage, was a symbol of the bravery and tradition that runs deep in Bosnian culture perhaps in the older generation according to Ibrahim . Our own brush with danger on the narrow roads—a tire puncture near a precarious drop on top of the mountain—was a stark reminder of life's fragility. Yet, we faced it with teamwork, patience and respect for one another, much like the Bosnian people have done through their turbulent history. Death is the terminator of the rich, powerful, fame, handsome, beauty, family, friends, education and so on. Death is found at every corner, sometimes a harsh reminder is a form of mercy- this is the Mercy of Allah, we better recognise it sooner, do not ignore harsh calls rather see it as opportunity to transform.
Imam, Students & Parents Call
In Mostar, we also enjoyed a thrilling speedboat ride, explored the stunning landscape, and connected with the locals. The bond we formed with an imam and his stories of the Bosnian war genocide were both heart-wrenching and inspiring. His hospitality, despite his own suffering, was a testament to the Bosnian spirit of resilience and respect. Travnik and Jajce offered their own unique charms. The blue mosque in Travnik, surrounded by graveyards and crowned by a castle, painted a picture of serene beauty and historical depth. Visiting a boarding college, we were touched by the respect and warmth of the students and even their parents were calling us to visit the villages. They welcomed us as honoured guests, a reflection of the deep-rooted Bosnian tradition of hospitality. Jajce, with its breath-taking waterfalls, showcased the natural beauty bestowed upon Bosnia. The picturesque landscapes were a constant reminder of the country's blessings. Here, we prayed, connected with the community, and enjoyed the vibe of local cafes and traditional shops. Throughout our journey, we were repeatedly invited to be guests of honor, whether it was by the imam in Travnik, who treated us to a special milk cake, or by the students who wanted to share their lives with us. This respect for guests runs in the blood of Bosnian people, who go out of their way to ensure you feel valued and welcomed. Everyone wanted to invite us. The imam said if one cafe sells milk cake, the one next to it would sell a different cake, out of respect and this is Islam. The moral and ethical behaviour is a thread running through Islam and I witnessed that in Travnic, in particular.
Parents of the students we have visited are still waiting for us to visit their villages to host us as guests. Talk about the characteristics of character, it is found in every corner.
Ameer, Local Mosque Keyholder
Our evenings were often spent in meaningful conversations. In Sarajevo, we met Ameer, the keyholder of a mosque around the corner from where we stayed, who shared his tragic family history with us late into the night. He committed to serve the local mosque by opening the gate for every salah. He took us around the capital with passion, talking about his people, culture and food- he also seemed to have been inspired the Ottoman influence as we walked on narrow streets. His story, marked by pain and resilience, was a reflection of the broader Bosnian experience. The mother of Ameer took the life of her own daughter and then her own life during the genocide in the 90s. Ameer can talk about resilience and courage, his eyes speak volumes of pain. His father was a hero, participated in the war during the Sarajevo siege.
The bond we formed with the locals were profound. Whether it was sharing a meal, praying together, or simply enjoying the serene beauty of Bosnia’s landscapes, we felt a deep connection. The people of Bosnia and Herzegovina, with their warm hearts and unwavering respect for others, have a unique ability to purify the air with their presence. Their hospitality, resilience, and dignity left an indelible mark on us, until today we are in touch and we are going back, September, October, November, December and January- Bosnia retreat has become the heart of 99e project, there is more to discover. Join us 99e.co.uk/retreat for future visit and become part of the story.
My journey to Sarajevo and beyond was not just about visiting a new place; it was about connecting with a culture that values respect, hospitality, and resilience above all. The Bosnian people, with their warm hearts and welcoming nature, taught us the true meaning of community and character. This trip was a testament to the enduring spirit of Bosnia and Herzegovina, a place where the past and present blend seamlessly to create a vibrant and welcoming atmosphere.
